This blog post recounts a family's journey on VIA Rail's The Ocean train from Halifax to Montreal, highlighting the comfort of the ride, the sad state of train services in Canada, and the historical context of rail travel's decline. Despite the enjoyable experience, the post emphasizes the challenges faced by passenger rail in Canada, including funding cuts and outdated infrastructure.
Every summer, my family and I travel to Canada to visit friends and family. This year, we took a different route, flying via the East Coast to our ultimate destination of Toronto and my hometown of London, affectionately dubbed Fake London. Our journey began with a stopover to see family near Montréal, necessitating travel from Halifax, Nova Scotia, to Montréal, Québec. While a flight would take under two hours and cost a couple of hundred euros per person, we opted for the 24-hour train ride instead. This decision was motivated by a desire to avoid unnecessary flights and choose a more environmentally friendly method of travel, though I must admit, my love for trains played a significant role.
Going into this journey, I had modest expectations. I had taken VIA Rail several times before, primarily in the Windsor to Québec City corridor, and had previously described those experiences as having "all the pain of flying while taking longer than driving."
In Halifax, VIA Rail still enforces some ridiculous policies, such as requiring passengers to queue up to show their passports and boarding passes for a domestic train. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the comfort and enjoyment of this particular train ride. The staff were friendly, and the journey offered beautiful views and decent food. Yet, it was evident that train service in Eastern Canada has seen better days, and this experience was enjoyable not because of the service but in spite of it.
The train we took is called "The Ocean," a sleeper train service between Montréal and Halifax. It travels along a 1,300-kilometer indirect route through Eastern Canada, with a scheduled travel time of just under 24 hours. The train features sleeper cars with various sleeping options, economy class seats, two lounge cars, and a dining car. I’ve heard The Ocean referred to as the second-best train in Canada, with the first being "The Canadian," a luxury tourist train that runs over 4,000 kilometers between Toronto and Vancouver. While I would love to experience The Canadian, the nearly $7,000 price tag for a Prestige Class ticket is a bit steep, so for now, The Ocean would have to suffice.
I typically would start a travel blog with a tour of the departure city, but I find Halifax to be rather forgettable. Founded in 1749, it resembles any other car-centric Canadian city, lacking rapid transit and relying solely on buses stuck in traffic. The waterfront area is pleasant, with nice restaurants along the boardwalk, but the downtown streets are uncomfortably loud due to container trucks. Halifax feels like Fake London by the sea, and its car infrastructure has done more to destroy its charm than the Halifax Explosion of 1917.
Instead of staying in Halifax, we opted for Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in 1753. Lunenburg is a well-preserved example of a British colonial town, featuring interesting wooden buildings and historic architecture. It was a lovely place to stay for a few days.
The land use around the Halifax train station reflects typical Canadian urban planning: a gas station and a large parking lot attached to a grocery store. The train station itself is effectively underused, with The Ocean being the only train departing from it three days a week. This service reduction is a result of significant cuts to rail funding by the Conservative government in 2012, which led to a drastic reduction in train services across the country.
The Ocean has a long history, having been in continuous operation for 120 years since its inception in 1905 as "The Ocean Limited." It has undergone various ownership changes, ultimately becoming part of VIA Rail, which was established to manage passenger rail services after the government split Canadian National Railway into two entities in 1977. Unfortunately, the focus on freight over passenger services has led to a decline in the quality and availability of train travel in Canada.
After boarding The Ocean, I was initially concerned about the age of our carriage, a "Chateau car" built in the 1950s. Despite its age, the room was spacious and comfortable, featuring a sink that doubled as a table, power sockets, and an en suite toilet. The nostalgic charm of the older train cars was evident, with satisfying light switches and ample storage space. However, it was a reminder of how much better train travel used to be in Canada.
As we settled in, the train departed Halifax about ten minutes late. A staff member provided a presentation about the train, sharing interesting facts and serving sparkling wine. The staff's enthusiasm for trains was palpable, which added to the overall experience.
Lunch was served in the dining car, which was comfortable and offered table service. The meals were catered and reheated on board, yet surprisingly tasty. In the past, The Ocean was known for its high-quality fresh food, but today it operates on a shoestring budget, reflecting the broader decline of passenger rail in Canada.
The dining experience was a stark contrast to the utilitarian approach of many modern trains, especially in Europe, where luxury has been sacrificed for cost and convenience. The nostalgic remnants of a bygone era were evident throughout the journey, from the food to the overall ambiance.
The Ocean features a mix of older stainless steel Budd Company cars and smaller Renaissance cars, originally built in the UK. The Renaissance cars were acquired at a discount after the cancellation of a planned sleeper train service in Europe. These cars are smaller and designed for overnight travel, but they lack the comfort needed for a 24-hour journey.
The train also includes lounge cars with free coffee and tea, and a unique "transition car" that connects the different carriage types. This car is essential for accommodating the various designs and ensuring a smooth journey.
As we traveled through New Brunswick, the views were beautiful, though the train was running behind schedule due to speed restrictions and the presence of freight trains. The slow pace of travel allowed us to appreciate the scenery, but it also highlighted the challenges faced by passenger rail in Canada.
The train stops at 22 stations, with additional flag stops where it only halts if there are passengers. The experience of getting off at these stops was a reminder of the limited public transit options available in many towns along the route.
As we approached Montréal, I reflected on the future of train travel in Canada. The Ocean's service has been cut significantly, and the aging carriages are reaching the end of their service life. The government has promised increased funding for VIA Rail, but concrete plans for the future remain unclear.
Despite the challenges, I would recommend taking The Ocean at least once, especially for train enthusiasts. However, potential travelers should be aware of the high costs and limited service availability. The experience is a blend of nostalgia and a stark reminder of the decline of passenger rail in Canada.
In conclusion, while The Ocean offers a comfortable and scenic journey, it also serves as a testament to the struggles of train travel in Eastern Canada. The future of this service remains uncertain, but the charm of riding in a Budd Company stainless steel train carriage is an experience worth having, even as the landscape of Canadian rail travel continues to evolve.
