In this blog post, we follow the journey of author Nick Medlin as he navigates the challenging landscapes of Hoor, encounters refugees, and reflects on the historical significance of the region, particularly the sacred Lake Mansarovar and Mount Kailash. The narrative highlights the contrast between past explorers' emotional experiences and Nick's pragmatic view, culminating in his medical challenges and the eventual companionship with Norbu for the pilgrimage.
In the previous part of this series, we learned that our author, Nick Medlin, had reached a place called Hoor, where his friend Daniel left him to return home. This blog post continues the exploration of Nick's journey, detailing the challenges he faced and the reflections he made along the way.
Nick's journey from Salt Lake to Hoor was fraught with difficulties, including two flat tires. The first time they encountered a flat, they managed to replace it with a spare tire. However, the second flat left them with no choice but to continue with a severely deflated tire.
Hoor, as described by Nick, was a miserable place filled with dust and rocks, and it was teeming with refugees—people who had fled their homes and were living in temporary settlements. Despite the grim surroundings, Hoor was located near the sacred Mansarovar Lake, which holds significant importance in Hindu and Buddhist traditions. It is believed that four rivers originate from this lake: the Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra, and Ganges, although only the Sutlej actually flows from it, while the others emerge from Mount Kailash.
While waiting to continue his journey, Nick decided to visit a café in Hoor. The café was poorly painted and had broken windows, and the service was less than ideal. A Chinese boy, dressed in dirty clothes, served him tea in a greasy glass. After half an hour, Nick and his companion Setan resumed their journey towards Mount Kailash, navigating through mountains and trash.
Nick's experience in Hoor starkly contrasted with that of previous travelers. For instance, in 1900, a Japanese monk named A. I. Kawag was so moved by the sight of Mansarovar Lake that he cried. Similarly, a Swedish explorer named Sven Hedin, known for his stoicism, was also deeply affected by the lake. In contrast, Nick found the location to be quite ordinary and was overwhelmed by the miserable conditions, including the presence of refugees and dust.
As night fell, Nick and Setan arrived in Darchen, where they stayed at a guesthouse. Nick's cold, which had never fully healed, returned, and he struggled to breathe at high altitude. Despite his discomfort, he managed to fall asleep, only to be awakened by a heavy feeling in his chest. This prompted him to sit up, which alleviated some of his symptoms.
However, as he tried to sleep again, he felt an overwhelming fear that if he fell asleep, he might not wake up. This fear kept him awake throughout the night, leading to a restless experience.
The following morning, Setan took Nick to a newly established medical college in Darchen. The building resembled a monastery and had a large, sturdy door. Inside, they found a Tibetan doctor who, despite his casual attire, was knowledgeable. After examining Nick, the doctor reassured him that his symptoms were due to the cold and altitude, prescribing medication to help him recover.
Nick left the clinic with a prescription and a sense of relief. He began taking the Tibetan medicine, which had a cinnamon-like taste, and after a good night's sleep, he felt significantly better. Setan, satisfied that Nick was out of danger, decided to return to Lhasa.
After a restful night, Nick found Darchen to be less daunting. The sun shone brightly in the clear blue sky, and the majestic Himalayas were visible to the south. Despite the presence of trash, the beauty of the mountains uplifted his spirits. Nick noted that during the peak pilgrimage season, Darchen would be bustling with travelers, many of whom brought their own accommodations.
While enjoying coffee at a café, Nick contemplated his limited options and the challenges he faced. He realized that he had not made much progress in his self-help endeavors and felt a sense of urgency to embark on the pilgrimage.
One day, while at a small, dimly lit café, Nick met Norbu, who approached him to ask if he could join him at the table. Norbu, dressed in Western-style clothing, was not Tibetan but worked at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences in Beijing. He was in Darchen for fieldwork and expressed interest in the Kailash Kora, despite never having completed it himself.
Their conversation blossomed over tea, and Nick felt a sense of camaraderie with Norbu. Although Norbu was apprehensive about the physical demands of the pilgrimage, he was enthusiastic about the journey ahead. Nick suggested they rent yaks for their luggage, and despite Norbu's concerns about his size, they agreed to tackle the Kora together.
As this chapter of Nick's journey comes to a close, it highlights the stark contrasts between past and present experiences along the Silk Road. From the emotional encounters of earlier explorers to Nick's pragmatic approach, the narrative captures the essence of adventure, challenge, and companionship. The journey continues as Nick and Norbu prepare for the pilgrimage, promising more stories and insights to come.
