In this interview with Noel Deeb, the owner of El Bread, we delve into her journey as a baker, her unique approach to sourdough, and the importance of using fresh, stone-ground grains. Noel shares insights on maintaining a sourdough starter, the baking process, and her favorite flours, providing valuable tips for aspiring bakers.
In the heart of Old Louisville, Noel Deeb has been crafting delicious sourdough breads and treats at her bakery, El Bread, for the past seven years. In this interview, we explore her journey into baking, her passion for sourdough, and the techniques she employs to create her unique breads.
Noel's journey began in 2012 when she baked her first loaf of sourdough. Initially drawn to kitchen projects and fermentation, she quickly became obsessed with baking. "Feeding my family good food is important," she explains, highlighting her motivation to create quality bread.
When asked about her early baking experiences, Noel reflects on her initial attempts. "I never had the super flat, gummy loaves that some beginners experience. Looking back, my early loaves were pretty decent, possibly due to my prior kitchen experience or just beginner's luck."
Noel's sourdough starter is approximately seven years old, although she admits it has gone through some ups and downs. "I have had a starter since 2012, but at one point, it did die," she shares. Despite this, her current starter is vibrant and fragrant, thanks to its transition from white flour to stone-milled whole grain.
Noel's approach to maintaining her starter is somewhat unconventional. "I feed my starter at least once a day using stone-milled whole grain flour. Sometimes I stick it in the fridge during my days off, but I don't scale my feedings, which is a big no-no in the baking community," she admits. Her chaotic life, running a business from home while caring for her children, leads to a more relaxed feeding routine.
Noel bakes a significant number of loaves each week, ranging from 60 to 150 depending on the season. She started with a home oven, baking only 8 to 12 loaves at a time, but now uses a specialized oven designed for bakers.
Noel is a fan of the Rafco oven, which she describes as a basic metal box lined with stone. "It doesn't inject steam, so I have to manually add steam during baking, which can be finicky," she explains. This oven allows her to bake multiple loaves at once, a necessity for her growing business.
Noel sources her flour from Janie's Mill, an organic family farm in Illinois, and also mills about 30% of her grains in-house. She emphasizes the importance of using fresh, high-quality flour, stating, "Flour is not typically thought of as a fresh food, but it absolutely should be."
Noel discusses her favorite types of flour:
Noel offers valuable advice for those looking to start their sourdough journey. "Find a person online whose baking you admire and stick to their methods. The internet can be overwhelming with conflicting advice."
She recommends using a Dutch oven for baking sourdough, as it traps steam and helps achieve a good rise. "I also suggest a combo cooker, which allows for more loaves to be baked at once."
When it comes to proofing, Noel advises against letting the dough double in size during bulk fermentation. "Instead, aim for just shy of that to avoid over-proofing. Temperature plays a crucial role in this process, so be mindful of your environment."
Noel discusses the Sourdough Sidekick, a tool designed to simplify the process of maintaining a sourdough starter. "For busy people, this could be a game-changer. It helps take away the pain points of feeding and caring for a starter, making it more accessible for beginners."
Noel Deeb's passion for baking and commitment to quality ingredients shine through in her work at El Bread. Her insights into sourdough baking, from starter maintenance to flour selection, provide a wealth of knowledge for both novice and experienced bakers alike. If you're in the Louisville area, be sure to visit El Bread for a taste of her delicious creations.
